Rollei Infrared 400 Black and White Negative Film (4 x 5")
since: 2018/03/27
update: 2018/07/06
reference:
1. Rollei Infrared 400 Black and White Negative Film (4 x 5", 25 Sheets)
2. Remembering Sir Simon Marsden: Master of Infrared Photography | Shutterbug
3. Simon Marsden
4. Infrared Photography, Part 1: Debunking Myths
5. Infrared Photography, Part 2: How to Correctly Use the Film
6. Infrared Photography, Part 3: Focusing with Infrared Film
7. Infrared Lighting - Kolari Vision
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Product Highlights
IR-Sensitive Panchromatic(全色) B&W Neg. Film
ISO 400/27° without Filtration
Infrared Sensitivity Up to 820nm
Very Wide Exposure Latitude (非常高的曝光容許度)
Fine Grain and Sharpness, Good Contrast
Halation Effects with Longer Exposures (長曝的光暈效果)
Ideal for Scanning Applications
Archival LE-500-Rated Polyester Base
Anti-Static Coating (防靜電塗層)
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Overview
Rollei Infrared 400 is a unique infrared-sensitized panchromatic black and white negative film with a nominal sensitivity of ISO 400/27° without filtration. It is sensitive to IR wavelengths up to 820nm and can be used to produce unique halation effects with filtration and by varying the exposure length. It is suitable for working in both daylight and tungsten conditions and is characterized by a fine grain structure, notable sharpness, and high resolving power. Additionally, a good contrast profile offers clear separation between shadow and highlight regions. The film's polyester base has been tested to an LE-500 (life expectancy 500 years) archival rating and also features an anti-static coating. Additionally, this clear base is particularly well-suited to scanning applications.
祿來紅外線400是一種獨特的紅外線敏感全色黑白負片，標稱靈敏度為ISO 400/27°，無需過濾。 它對高達820nm的紅外波長敏感，可用於通過過濾和改變曝光長度來產生獨特的光暈效果。 它適合在日光和鎢條件下工作，並具有細晶粒結構，顯著的銳度和高分辨率的特點。 另外，良好的對比度輪廓可以在陰影區和高光區之間提供清晰的分離。 該薄膜的聚酯基材已通過LE-500（壽命500年）檔案評級測試，並具有防靜電塗層。 此外，這個清晰的基礎特別適合掃描應用程序。
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Reviews
Recent years have witnessed all IR films, one after another, being discontinued, except for Rollei Infrared. Properly used, Rollei Infrared can render broadleaf foliage and grass light gray, or even white, if the foliage is directly lit by sunlight; and without changing the gray scale of other colors in the scene. This sought-after rendering is called the Wood effect, after Robert W. Wood, who first described it. If you want to try Infrared (and you should), where do you start? Rollei's own literature isn't much help: Speed ISO 400 (for 720nm) - (*misleading) Push/Pull Not specified - film must be tested Filtration? No suggestions at all, and filtration is critical! *Should say ISO 400 - UNFILTERED ISO 0.125, most often ISO 3 - (for 720nm) Yes, you can leave the filter off, and shoot Rollei Infrared as a conventional ISO 400 b&w film. The 720nm refers to an IR filter with peak transmission at 720 nanometers (near-infrared). Defacto standard - Hoya R72 Well, in one sense, they've got a point. Infrared can be used for scientific, experimental or creative effects. Each might require its own filtration, and Infrared doesn't always respond to filtration in intuitive ways.
近年來，除了祿來紅外線外，所有IR電影都陸續出現，並且已經停產。正確使用，如果葉子直接被陽光照射，祿來紅外線可以使闊葉樹葉和草地呈淺灰色，甚至白色;並且不改變場景中其他顏色的灰度。這種受歡迎的渲染被稱為木質效果，在首次描述它的羅伯特W.伍德之後。如果你想嘗試紅外（你應該），你從哪裡開始？祿來自己的文獻沒有太多的幫助：速度ISO 400（對於720納米） - （*誤導）推/拉未指定 - 膠片必須經過測試過濾？根本沒有建議，過濾是至關重要的！ *應該說ISO 400 - UNFILTERED ISO 0.125，通常是ISO 3 - （對於720納米）是的，您可以關閉濾光片，並將Rollei Infrared作為傳統ISO 400黑白膠片拍攝。 720nm是指在720納米（近紅外）處具有峰值透射率的紅外濾光片。事實上的標準 - Hoya R72從某種意義上說，他們有一個觀點。紅外線可用於科學，實驗或創意效果。每個可能都需要自己的過濾，紅外並不總是以直觀的方式響應過濾。
To complicate things, your light meter doesn't respond to light in the same way Infrared does. So yes, the film must be tested for each application. But it's still frustrating trying to get started. Starting Point: If you want to try for the Wood effect, here's a place to start. Get some Rollei Infrared, and a Hoya R72 filter. Find a scene dominated by vigorously growing, moisture- and chlorophyl-bearing broad-leaf foliage (not an evergreen forest), in full sunlight, at noon, middle of the summer. Set up your camera on a tripod. Frame and focus. Meter the scene. Your meter, set at ISO 400, will show something like 1/500 sec. between f/11 and f/16. Attach the R72 filter. It's nearly opaque; that's why you must use a tripod, and frame and focus before you put it on. For the filter factor, add seven stops to your exposure. That will land you at 1/4 sec between f/11 and f/16. Take the picture. The film can be processed in any conventional b&w chemicals.
使事情複雜化，您的照度計不會像紅外線一樣響應光線。 所以是的，這部電影必須針對每個應用進行測試。 但嘗試入門仍然令人沮喪。 起點：如果你想嘗試木頭效果，這裡是一個開始的地方。 獲得一些Rollei紅外線和Hoya R72濾波器。 在充滿陽光的夏季中午，在陽光充足的日光下，尋找一個以蓬勃生長，含有水分和葉綠素的闊葉樹葉（不是常綠的森林）為主的景觀。 將相機放在三腳架上。 框架和重點。 測量現場。 您的儀表設置為ISO 400，將顯示類似1/500秒的內容。 在f / 11和f / 16之間。 連接R72過濾器。 它幾乎不透明; 這就是為什麼你必須先使用三腳架，然後再進行構圖和聚焦。 對於過濾因子，請在曝光時添加七次停止。 這將在f / 11和f / 16之間的1/4秒處降落。 拍照。 該薄膜可以在任何傳統的黑白化學品中加工。
Development time will be in the range of conventional ISO 400 films. Okay, that's a starting point. Here are some tips you might find helpful. Keep copious notes of every shot, and make sure you can keep each shot with its notes. Without notes, you'll find a frame that was successful, and not remember what you did to get that look. You should start out bracketing your exposures -- -1 / normal / +1 at the least. Better would be -2 / -1 / normal / +1 / +2 for your first run. After developing and viewing, you'll see which direction you should head on successive runs. Some lenses focus infrared at a different point than visible light, some don't. If your lens has a red mark (infrared focus point) on the barrel near infinity, after focusing, grip the focusing ring with your thumbnail opposite infinity, then rotate the focusing ring so your thumbnail is opposite the red mark. 開發時間將在傳統ISO 400膠片的範圍內。 好的，那是一個起點。 以下是您可能會發現有用的一些提示。 保持每一個鏡頭的豐富的筆記，並確保你可以保持每個鏡頭的筆記。 沒有筆記，你會發現一個成功的框架，而不記得你做了什麼來獲得這種外觀。 你應該開始包圍你的曝光 - 至少-1 / normal / +1。 第一次運行時，最好是-2 / -1 / normal / +1 / +2。 在開發和查看之後，您會看到連續運行應該朝哪個方向前進。 有些鏡頭會將紅外線聚焦在與可見光不同的點上，有些則不會。 如果鏡頭在近距離無限遠處的桶上有紅色標記（紅外焦點），聚焦後，將縮略圖夾緊在無限遠處，然後旋轉對焦環，使縮略圖與紅色標記相對。
If your lens doesn't have the red mark, shoot without any focus adjustment. If you're shooting a camera with bellows (view-, field-, or press-camera), you're on your own. Neither the camera nor the lens will help you. You can try to research your lens, and see if there's anything published about focus in infrared light. You can run your own tests by shooting a 45-degree inclined yard stick, focusing on the middle, and seeing what is really in focus on the developed film, then making measurements on your camera, and massaging that into a reference table to carry with your camera kit. The procedure above keeps the f-stop above f/11 to maximize depth of field, and help with the possibility of infrared focus shift. If you're shooting a large format camera, you can bump the f-stop a lot higher (and the exposure time a lot slower), as you're used to doing with conventional film.
如果鏡頭沒有紅色標記，則不進行任何對焦調整。 如果您使用波紋管拍攝相機（視野，攝像頭或相機），那麼您就是您自己的。 相機和鏡頭都不會幫助你。 你可以嘗試研究你的鏡頭，看看是否有關於紅外光聚焦的內容。 您可以通過拍攝45度傾斜的圍欄來進行自己的測試，重點放在中間，看看真正關注發達膠片的內容，然後在相機上進行測量，然後將其按摩到參考表中，以便隨身攜帶 你的相機套件。 上面的程序保持f / 11以上的光圈以最大化景深，並有助於紅外焦點偏移的可能性。 如果您正在拍攝大幅面相機，您可以像使用傳統膠片時那樣使f-stop高出很多（曝光時間慢得多）。
When testing, shoot Infrared alongside a conventional b&w film. If you're shooting 35mm, two camera bodies would be easiest. A larger camera with interchangeable film magazines, or a sheet film camera make it easy to shoot two emulsions side-by-side, shot-by-shot. Print or scan the negatives. It is VERY instructive to see the positive images (not the negatives) conventional vs infrared, side by side. If you don't do this, you may look at the infrared negatives, and say Huh? They look like b&w negatives.... If you do this, you'll flip between the conventional b&w, and the infrared positives, and say, WOW! So THAT'S the difference!. If you did everything right, it is. A Hoya R72 filter is the defacto standard for this kind of infrared shooting. It blocks most visible light up to 660nm, and passes most light above 720nm.
測試時，將紅外線與傳統的黑白膠片一起拍攝。 如果你拍攝35毫米，兩個相機機身將是最簡單的。 帶有可更換膠片雜誌的大型相機或單張膠片相機可以輕鬆拍攝兩張並排拍攝的乳液。 打印或掃描底片。 看到傳統與紅外並行的正面圖像（不是負面圖像）是非常有益的。 如果你不這樣做，你可以看看紅外線的底片，並說嗯？ 它們看起來像是黑白的......如果你這樣做，你會在傳統的黑白和紅外線的正面之間翻轉，並說，哇！ 所以這是區別！ 如果你所做的一切都是正確的，那就是。 Hoya R72過濾器是這种红外拍攝的事實標準。 它可以阻擋多達660nm的大部分可見光，並可傳遞720nm以上的大部分光線。
Other 720nm filters are available, but may or may not be as effective. If your filter doesn't match the Hoya, your results won't match either. The filter needs to be blocking almost all light up to 660nm, and passing almost all light at 720nm and above for this to work. If you feel you should get an 820 or 900, thinking that more is better, don't. Rollei Infrared is only sensitive up to about 820nm, and a filter that only starts to pass at 820nm will leave you with unexposed, clear film. One disclaimer here: I can't know what light meter you're using, I can't know if you're using a Hoya R72, an equivalent, or a different filter. I can't know if you're shooting at the equator, or 60 degrees latitude. Infrared is different. That's why it's cool.
其他720nm濾波器可用，但可能會或可能不會有效。 如果您的過濾器與霍亞不匹配，您的結果也不匹配。 該濾光片需要阻擋幾乎所有的光線，高達660nm，並通過幾乎所有的720nm及以上的光線才能發揮作用。 如果你覺得你應該得到820或900，認為越多越好，不要。 祿來紅外線只對820nm左右敏感，只有在820nm處開始通過的濾光片才會讓您獲得未曝光的透明薄膜。 一個免責聲明：我不知道你使用的是什麼光度計，我不知道你使用的是Hoya R72，相當的還是不同的濾波器。 我不知道你是在赤道，還是在60度的緯度拍攝。 紅外線是不同的。 這就是為什麼它很酷。
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Hello, if you want the most pronounced infrared effect with this film, I'd use the Kodak Wratten 87, however this will mean shooting a a very slow ISO speed due to the filter factor. An all around easier filter to use would be Hoya R72, which allows a bit more of the visible light spectrum reach the film.
Rollei's Infrared film is sensitive up to 820nm. The Kodak-Wratten Filter would block everything below 795nm, and the Hoya R72 block all light below 720nm.
Using Kodak-Wratten 87: I'd meter for ISO 16-25. Infrared light can be unpredictable, so bracketing shots would be advisable.
Hoya's R72 blocks a little less light, so I'd shoot at ISO 25-50.
If you meter for ISO 400, add 4-5 stops, otherwise meter at the lower ISO values.
Something that helped me get more familiar with my filters was to shoot a less expensive 120 roll, and record what each shot was exposed at. That way I made almost no mistakes on the more expensive 4x5.
你好，如果你想在這部電影中獲得最顯著的紅外效果，我會使用柯達Wratten 87，但是這意味著由於過濾因素會拍攝非常慢的ISO感光度。 一個更容易使用的過濾器是Hoya R72，它可以使更多的可見光光譜到達膠片。
祿來的紅外線薄膜靈敏度高達820nm。 Kodak-Wratten濾光片將阻擋795nm以下的所有物體，Hoya R72可阻擋720nm以下的所有光線。
使用Kodak-Wratten 87：我會選擇ISO 16-25。 紅外燈可能無法預測，因此建議採用包圍式拍攝。
霍亞的R72阻擋了一點光線，所以我會以ISO 25-50的速度拍攝。
如果您計量ISO 400，請添加4-5次停止，否則按照較低的ISO值進行計量。
幫助我更熟悉我的過濾器的東西是拍攝更便宜的120張膠卷，並記錄每張照片的曝光時間。 這樣我就在更昂貴的4x5上幾乎沒有錯誤。
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You can use any filters for infrared films - #25 (600 nm) #89B (Cokin A/P007) (720 nm), or #87C (850 nm), etc.
600 nm - is wavelength. Then more this value, the effect is stronger .
Usually whan you use these filters, you need make 5-7 stops of expozition correction. But you need make some trial shots for definition of exact correction (the filter and method of measurement of an exposition change this correction).
I use Cokin 007 and I make 6 stops correction, but may be you need another value.
By the way - yon can use this film as the usual black-and-white film ISO 400 (without filter).
您可以使用任何用於紅外線膜的濾光片 - ＃25（600 nm）＃89B（Cokin A / P007）（720 nm）或＃87C（850 nm）等。
600納米 - 是波長。 那麼這個價值越多，效果就越強。
通常在使用這些過濾器時，您需要進行5-7次的洩露校正。 但是你需要做一些試驗性的拍攝來確定精確校正（過濾器和測量展覽的方法改變這種校正）。
我使用Cokin 007，我進行了6次停止更正，但可能需要另一個值。
順便說一句 - 你可以使用這部電影作為通常的黑白電影ISO 400（沒有過濾器）。
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PHILIPS 175W 110V E27 紅外線燈泡
利用紅外線波長 600~760nm 所產生之輻射熱,穿透皮膚而達到溫熱及乾燥效果.
應用:促進血液循環,緩和肌肉疼痛僵硬,也能在冬天當電熱器使用
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備註: 1. 也適用於低對比的朦朧風景拍攝.
update: 2018/07/06
reference:
1. Rollei Infrared 400 Black and White Negative Film (4 x 5", 25 Sheets)
2. Remembering Sir Simon Marsden: Master of Infrared Photography | Shutterbug
3. Simon Marsden
4. Infrared Photography, Part 1: Debunking Myths
5. Infrared Photography, Part 2: How to Correctly Use the Film
6. Infrared Photography, Part 3: Focusing with Infrared Film
7. Infrared Lighting - Kolari Vision
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Product Highlights
IR-Sensitive Panchromatic(全色) B&W Neg. Film
ISO 400/27° without Filtration
Infrared Sensitivity Up to 820nm
Very Wide Exposure Latitude (非常高的曝光容許度)
Fine Grain and Sharpness, Good Contrast
Halation Effects with Longer Exposures (長曝的光暈效果)
Ideal for Scanning Applications
Archival LE-500-Rated Polyester Base
Anti-Static Coating (防靜電塗層)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overview
Rollei Infrared 400 is a unique infrared-sensitized panchromatic black and white negative film with a nominal sensitivity of ISO 400/27° without filtration. It is sensitive to IR wavelengths up to 820nm and can be used to produce unique halation effects with filtration and by varying the exposure length. It is suitable for working in both daylight and tungsten conditions and is characterized by a fine grain structure, notable sharpness, and high resolving power. Additionally, a good contrast profile offers clear separation between shadow and highlight regions. The film's polyester base has been tested to an LE-500 (life expectancy 500 years) archival rating and also features an anti-static coating. Additionally, this clear base is particularly well-suited to scanning applications.
祿來紅外線400是一種獨特的紅外線敏感全色黑白負片，標稱靈敏度為ISO 400/27°，無需過濾。 它對高達820nm的紅外波長敏感，可用於通過過濾和改變曝光長度來產生獨特的光暈效果。 它適合在日光和鎢條件下工作，並具有細晶粒結構，顯著的銳度和高分辨率的特點。 另外，良好的對比度輪廓可以在陰影區和高光區之間提供清晰的分離。 該薄膜的聚酯基材已通過LE-500（壽命500年）檔案評級測試，並具有防靜電塗層。 此外，這個清晰的基礎特別適合掃描應用程序。
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Reviews
Recent years have witnessed all IR films, one after another, being discontinued, except for Rollei Infrared. Properly used, Rollei Infrared can render broadleaf foliage and grass light gray, or even white, if the foliage is directly lit by sunlight; and without changing the gray scale of other colors in the scene. This sought-after rendering is called the Wood effect, after Robert W. Wood, who first described it. If you want to try Infrared (and you should), where do you start? Rollei's own literature isn't much help: Speed ISO 400 (for 720nm) - (*misleading) Push/Pull Not specified - film must be tested Filtration? No suggestions at all, and filtration is critical! *Should say ISO 400 - UNFILTERED ISO 0.125, most often ISO 3 - (for 720nm) Yes, you can leave the filter off, and shoot Rollei Infrared as a conventional ISO 400 b&w film. The 720nm refers to an IR filter with peak transmission at 720 nanometers (near-infrared). Defacto standard - Hoya R72 Well, in one sense, they've got a point. Infrared can be used for scientific, experimental or creative effects. Each might require its own filtration, and Infrared doesn't always respond to filtration in intuitive ways.
近年來，除了祿來紅外線外，所有IR電影都陸續出現，並且已經停產。正確使用，如果葉子直接被陽光照射，祿來紅外線可以使闊葉樹葉和草地呈淺灰色，甚至白色;並且不改變場景中其他顏色的灰度。這種受歡迎的渲染被稱為木質效果，在首次描述它的羅伯特W.伍德之後。如果你想嘗試紅外（你應該），你從哪裡開始？祿來自己的文獻沒有太多的幫助：速度ISO 400（對於720納米） - （*誤導）推/拉未指定 - 膠片必須經過測試過濾？根本沒有建議，過濾是至關重要的！ *應該說ISO 400 - UNFILTERED ISO 0.125，通常是ISO 3 - （對於720納米）是的，您可以關閉濾光片，並將Rollei Infrared作為傳統ISO 400黑白膠片拍攝。 720nm是指在720納米（近紅外）處具有峰值透射率的紅外濾光片。事實上的標準 - Hoya R72從某種意義上說，他們有一個觀點。紅外線可用於科學，實驗或創意效果。每個可能都需要自己的過濾，紅外並不總是以直觀的方式響應過濾。
To complicate things, your light meter doesn't respond to light in the same way Infrared does. So yes, the film must be tested for each application. But it's still frustrating trying to get started. Starting Point: If you want to try for the Wood effect, here's a place to start. Get some Rollei Infrared, and a Hoya R72 filter. Find a scene dominated by vigorously growing, moisture- and chlorophyl-bearing broad-leaf foliage (not an evergreen forest), in full sunlight, at noon, middle of the summer. Set up your camera on a tripod. Frame and focus. Meter the scene. Your meter, set at ISO 400, will show something like 1/500 sec. between f/11 and f/16. Attach the R72 filter. It's nearly opaque; that's why you must use a tripod, and frame and focus before you put it on. For the filter factor, add seven stops to your exposure. That will land you at 1/4 sec between f/11 and f/16. Take the picture. The film can be processed in any conventional b&w chemicals.
使事情複雜化，您的照度計不會像紅外線一樣響應光線。 所以是的，這部電影必須針對每個應用進行測試。 但嘗試入門仍然令人沮喪。 起點：如果你想嘗試木頭效果，這裡是一個開始的地方。 獲得一些Rollei紅外線和Hoya R72濾波器。 在充滿陽光的夏季中午，在陽光充足的日光下，尋找一個以蓬勃生長，含有水分和葉綠素的闊葉樹葉（不是常綠的森林）為主的景觀。 將相機放在三腳架上。 框架和重點。 測量現場。 您的儀表設置為ISO 400，將顯示類似1/500秒的內容。 在f / 11和f / 16之間。 連接R72過濾器。 它幾乎不透明; 這就是為什麼你必須先使用三腳架，然後再進行構圖和聚焦。 對於過濾因子，請在曝光時添加七次停止。 這將在f / 11和f / 16之間的1/4秒處降落。 拍照。 該薄膜可以在任何傳統的黑白化學品中加工。
Development time will be in the range of conventional ISO 400 films. Okay, that's a starting point. Here are some tips you might find helpful. Keep copious notes of every shot, and make sure you can keep each shot with its notes. Without notes, you'll find a frame that was successful, and not remember what you did to get that look. You should start out bracketing your exposures -- -1 / normal / +1 at the least. Better would be -2 / -1 / normal / +1 / +2 for your first run. After developing and viewing, you'll see which direction you should head on successive runs. Some lenses focus infrared at a different point than visible light, some don't. If your lens has a red mark (infrared focus point) on the barrel near infinity, after focusing, grip the focusing ring with your thumbnail opposite infinity, then rotate the focusing ring so your thumbnail is opposite the red mark. 開發時間將在傳統ISO 400膠片的範圍內。 好的，那是一個起點。 以下是您可能會發現有用的一些提示。 保持每一個鏡頭的豐富的筆記，並確保你可以保持每個鏡頭的筆記。 沒有筆記，你會發現一個成功的框架，而不記得你做了什麼來獲得這種外觀。 你應該開始包圍你的曝光 - 至少-1 / normal / +1。 第一次運行時，最好是-2 / -1 / normal / +1 / +2。 在開發和查看之後，您會看到連續運行應該朝哪個方向前進。 有些鏡頭會將紅外線聚焦在與可見光不同的點上，有些則不會。 如果鏡頭在近距離無限遠處的桶上有紅色標記（紅外焦點），聚焦後，將縮略圖夾緊在無限遠處，然後旋轉對焦環，使縮略圖與紅色標記相對。
If your lens doesn't have the red mark, shoot without any focus adjustment. If you're shooting a camera with bellows (view-, field-, or press-camera), you're on your own. Neither the camera nor the lens will help you. You can try to research your lens, and see if there's anything published about focus in infrared light. You can run your own tests by shooting a 45-degree inclined yard stick, focusing on the middle, and seeing what is really in focus on the developed film, then making measurements on your camera, and massaging that into a reference table to carry with your camera kit. The procedure above keeps the f-stop above f/11 to maximize depth of field, and help with the possibility of infrared focus shift. If you're shooting a large format camera, you can bump the f-stop a lot higher (and the exposure time a lot slower), as you're used to doing with conventional film.
如果鏡頭沒有紅色標記，則不進行任何對焦調整。 如果您使用波紋管拍攝相機（視野，攝像頭或相機），那麼您就是您自己的。 相機和鏡頭都不會幫助你。 你可以嘗試研究你的鏡頭，看看是否有關於紅外光聚焦的內容。 您可以通過拍攝45度傾斜的圍欄來進行自己的測試，重點放在中間，看看真正關注發達膠片的內容，然後在相機上進行測量，然後將其按摩到參考表中，以便隨身攜帶 你的相機套件。 上面的程序保持f / 11以上的光圈以最大化景深，並有助於紅外焦點偏移的可能性。 如果您正在拍攝大幅面相機，您可以像使用傳統膠片時那樣使f-stop高出很多（曝光時間慢得多）。
When testing, shoot Infrared alongside a conventional b&w film. If you're shooting 35mm, two camera bodies would be easiest. A larger camera with interchangeable film magazines, or a sheet film camera make it easy to shoot two emulsions side-by-side, shot-by-shot. Print or scan the negatives. It is VERY instructive to see the positive images (not the negatives) conventional vs infrared, side by side. If you don't do this, you may look at the infrared negatives, and say Huh? They look like b&w negatives.... If you do this, you'll flip between the conventional b&w, and the infrared positives, and say, WOW! So THAT'S the difference!. If you did everything right, it is. A Hoya R72 filter is the defacto standard for this kind of infrared shooting. It blocks most visible light up to 660nm, and passes most light above 720nm.
測試時，將紅外線與傳統的黑白膠片一起拍攝。 如果你拍攝35毫米，兩個相機機身將是最簡單的。 帶有可更換膠片雜誌的大型相機或單張膠片相機可以輕鬆拍攝兩張並排拍攝的乳液。 打印或掃描底片。 看到傳統與紅外並行的正面圖像（不是負面圖像）是非常有益的。 如果你不這樣做，你可以看看紅外線的底片，並說嗯？ 它們看起來像是黑白的......如果你這樣做，你會在傳統的黑白和紅外線的正面之間翻轉，並說，哇！ 所以這是區別！ 如果你所做的一切都是正確的，那就是。 Hoya R72過濾器是這种红外拍攝的事實標準。 它可以阻擋多達660nm的大部分可見光，並可傳遞720nm以上的大部分光線。
Other 720nm filters are available, but may or may not be as effective. If your filter doesn't match the Hoya, your results won't match either. The filter needs to be blocking almost all light up to 660nm, and passing almost all light at 720nm and above for this to work. If you feel you should get an 820 or 900, thinking that more is better, don't. Rollei Infrared is only sensitive up to about 820nm, and a filter that only starts to pass at 820nm will leave you with unexposed, clear film. One disclaimer here: I can't know what light meter you're using, I can't know if you're using a Hoya R72, an equivalent, or a different filter. I can't know if you're shooting at the equator, or 60 degrees latitude. Infrared is different. That's why it's cool.
其他720nm濾波器可用，但可能會或可能不會有效。 如果您的過濾器與霍亞不匹配，您的結果也不匹配。 該濾光片需要阻擋幾乎所有的光線，高達660nm，並通過幾乎所有的720nm及以上的光線才能發揮作用。 如果你覺得你應該得到820或900，認為越多越好，不要。 祿來紅外線只對820nm左右敏感，只有在820nm處開始通過的濾光片才會讓您獲得未曝光的透明薄膜。 一個免責聲明：我不知道你使用的是什麼光度計，我不知道你使用的是Hoya R72，相當的還是不同的濾波器。 我不知道你是在赤道，還是在60度的緯度拍攝。 紅外線是不同的。 這就是為什麼它很酷。
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Hello, if you want the most pronounced infrared effect with this film, I'd use the Kodak Wratten 87, however this will mean shooting a a very slow ISO speed due to the filter factor. An all around easier filter to use would be Hoya R72, which allows a bit more of the visible light spectrum reach the film.
Rollei's Infrared film is sensitive up to 820nm. The Kodak-Wratten Filter would block everything below 795nm, and the Hoya R72 block all light below 720nm.
Using Kodak-Wratten 87: I'd meter for ISO 16-25. Infrared light can be unpredictable, so bracketing shots would be advisable.
Hoya's R72 blocks a little less light, so I'd shoot at ISO 25-50.
If you meter for ISO 400, add 4-5 stops, otherwise meter at the lower ISO values.
Something that helped me get more familiar with my filters was to shoot a less expensive 120 roll, and record what each shot was exposed at. That way I made almost no mistakes on the more expensive 4x5.
你好，如果你想在這部電影中獲得最顯著的紅外效果，我會使用柯達Wratten 87，但是這意味著由於過濾因素會拍攝非常慢的ISO感光度。 一個更容易使用的過濾器是Hoya R72，它可以使更多的可見光光譜到達膠片。
祿來的紅外線薄膜靈敏度高達820nm。 Kodak-Wratten濾光片將阻擋795nm以下的所有物體，Hoya R72可阻擋720nm以下的所有光線。
使用Kodak-Wratten 87：我會選擇ISO 16-25。 紅外燈可能無法預測，因此建議採用包圍式拍攝。
霍亞的R72阻擋了一點光線，所以我會以ISO 25-50的速度拍攝。
如果您計量ISO 400，請添加4-5次停止，否則按照較低的ISO值進行計量。
幫助我更熟悉我的過濾器的東西是拍攝更便宜的120張膠卷，並記錄每張照片的曝光時間。 這樣我就在更昂貴的4x5上幾乎沒有錯誤。
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You can use any filters for infrared films - #25 (600 nm) #89B (Cokin A/P007) (720 nm), or #87C (850 nm), etc.
600 nm - is wavelength. Then more this value, the effect is stronger .
Usually whan you use these filters, you need make 5-7 stops of expozition correction. But you need make some trial shots for definition of exact correction (the filter and method of measurement of an exposition change this correction).
I use Cokin 007 and I make 6 stops correction, but may be you need another value.
By the way - yon can use this film as the usual black-and-white film ISO 400 (without filter).
您可以使用任何用於紅外線膜的濾光片 - ＃25（600 nm）＃89B（Cokin A / P007）（720 nm）或＃87C（850 nm）等。
600納米 - 是波長。 那麼這個價值越多，效果就越強。
通常在使用這些過濾器時，您需要進行5-7次的洩露校正。 但是你需要做一些試驗性的拍攝來確定精確校正（過濾器和測量展覽的方法改變這種校正）。
我使用Cokin 007，我進行了6次停止更正，但可能需要另一個值。
順便說一句 - 你可以使用這部電影作為通常的黑白電影ISO 400（沒有過濾器）。
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PHILIPS 175W 110V E27 紅外線燈泡
利用紅外線波長 600~760nm 所產生之輻射熱,穿透皮膚而達到溫熱及乾燥效果.
應用:促進血液循環,緩和肌肉疼痛僵硬,也能在冬天當電熱器使用
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備註: 1. 也適用於低對比的朦朧風景拍攝.
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