Light leaks
since: 2018/06/08
update: 2018/06/10
reference:
1. Large format photography: Light leaks
2. prevention of film holder light leaks
3. Need help analyzing light leak
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Some photographers (like me) are plagued by these problems, which are among the
worse frustrations of LF. Some have never experienced them. There are zillions of
different sources of light leaks.
一些攝影師（像我一樣）受到這些問題的困擾，這是LF的更糟糕的挫折之一。
有些從未經歷過它們。 有數以萬計的不同光洩漏源。
A summary
總結
1. Holder:
底片匣：
Leaks at light trap for dark slide. Leaks because its warped.
Leaks from defective dark slide or dark slide doesn't fit. Leak at loading flap.
在黑色滑板遮光處洩漏。 洩漏是因為它的扭曲。
從有缺陷或不合適的黑色滑板洩漏。 裝載到翻蓋時洩漏。
2. Camera back:
相機背部：
Leaks because its warped. Because the light trap keeps the holder from seating properly.
Leaks because something else keeps the holder from seating.
由於其扭曲而洩漏。由於遮光裝置使支架無法正確安放。
洩漏是因為別的東西使支架不能就位。
3. Camera body:
相機機身：
Leaks from cracks or bad joints. Possible around screws or rivets holding parts on.
Leaks from ill fitting lens boards. Leaks from holes in lens board.
從裂縫或接縫不良處洩漏。可能在附件上的螺絲或鉚釘周圍。
從不適合的鏡頭板洩漏。鏡頭板上的孔洩漏。
4. Bellows:
波紋管：
Pin holes at corners or elswhere. Doesn't fit at ends where its fastened to
camera body and front.
在角落或其他地方的針孔。 固定在相機機身和正面的末端不合適。
5. Leaks from shutters sticking open, perhaps only a pin hole opening.
Can also be caused by defective shutter leaves. Check both cocked and after tripping.
Some shutters have hard rubber leaves and can have pin holes in them.
因百葉窗的持續打開而洩漏，也許只有一個針孔開口。 也可能由快門葉片損壞引起。
同時檢查上板機和絆倒後。 有些百葉窗有堅硬的橡膠葉片，並且可以有針孔。
6. Reflective something inside camera. Light outside of the image area being reflected
onto the film.
相機內反光的東西。 圖像區域外的光被反射到膠片上。
7. Film is getting fogged somewhare other than in the camera.
膠卷在相機以外的地方變得模糊不清。
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A few diagnosis remarks
一些診斷評論
If the fogging extends past the borders from the rails in the holder it has to be coming
from elsewhere than from the camera.
如果起霧從支架上的導軌延伸越過邊界，則它必須來自別處而不是來自相機。
If many negatives have identical an identical or nearly identical fog pattern it may come
from a leak in the film box.
如果許多負片具有相同或幾乎相同的霧圖案，則可能來自膠片盒中的洩漏。
Pinhole leaks would be more likely to look like superimposed images than oblong blobs.
針孔洩漏更可能看起來像疊加圖像而非長方形斑點。
If the "light leaks" do not have sharp edges but they do have edges, i. e. there is not
a bright area which gradually fades out, this must be not too far from the film.
如果“漏光”沒有鋒利的邊緣，但它們確實有邊緣，亦即沒有一個明亮的區域逐漸淡出，
這一定不會離電影太遠。
If the leak were in the bellows or in the front board then I would expect the bright areas to have foggy edges.
如果洩漏位於波紋管或前面板，那麼我會期望明亮的區域有霧邊。
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Leaking film holders
從底片匣洩漏
Common problems
常見問題
Check the condition of the hinges on the loading flap. If they are worn that could be your
leak. Is the slide seating all the way down into the holder? Maybe you have a small
hairline crack at the seam of the flap possibly?
檢查裝載擋板上鉸鏈的狀況。 如果他們磨損可能是你的洩漏。 滑塊是否一直落座到支架中？ 也許你可能在皮瓣的縫隙處有一條細小的發紋？
One place they leak is the place where you pull out the dark slide. Ever take a holder apart?
A friend and I did when we where building a vacumn 4x5 film holder for our astrogrpah
(that's another story).
他們洩漏的一個地方是你拉出黑暗幻燈片的地方。 曾經拿過一個持有人嗎？ 我們的一位朋友和我在為我們的天文台製作一個4x5電影拍攝棚的時候（這是另一回事）。
Inside the "top" of the holder, behind the metal part, is a peice of light brass - it looks like a
curved comb. over top of this metal is a peice of black felt. What happens over tiem is the
felt wears down, "teeth" on the comb loose thier spring and fail to hold up the felt in place,
or break all together.
在保持架的“頂部”內部，在金屬部件後面，是一個淺黃銅片 - 它看起來像一把彎曲的梳子。 在這種金屬之上是黑色毛氈。 關於頭髮的事情是頭髮磨損了，梳子上的“牙齒”鬆開了它的彈簧，並且未能將毛氈固定在位，或者一起破碎。
Normally when you pull back a darkslide, the curved part of the "comb" springs back up into place, blocking off light. Older holders, the felt may have holes in it, allowing small light leaks to escape through. Also, the felt may be very dirty, so no matter how clean the rest of the holder is, you continually get scratches and dust marks on your flim, carried in off the felt onto the emulsion of your film from the darkslide being pushed in.
正常情況下，當你拉回黑暗滑道時，“梳子”的彎曲部分彈回到位，阻擋光線。 年長的持有者，毛氈可能有洞，允許小漏光通過。 此外，毛氈可能非常臟，所以無論支架的其他部分如何干淨，您都會不時在毛氈上留下划痕和灰塵痕跡，從毛氈上將其從推入的黑色滑片中帶入膠片乳劑中。
You can check these with a flash light by folding down the loading flap so you can look
straight into the holder and shining the light right into the slot for the slide.
您可以通過折疊裝載擋板，使用閃光燈檢查這些擋板，以便您可以直觀地看到擋板並將
光線直接照射到滑板的插槽中。
Marking holders for identification
標識持有人的身份
If large format users would use a notch-encoding scheme to number their holders,
it would be MUCH easier to exactly pinpoint a leaky holder. I (and several other large
format people I'm friends with) take miniature files and notch the flap with the files.
如果大幅面用戶使用凹槽編碼方案對其持有者進行編號，則準確定位漏出的持有者會更容
易。 我（和其他幾個大型的朋友）拍攝微型文件，並在文件中留下一點痕跡。
For me I use a v-notch for 1-4, square-notch for 5, and a half-round- notch for 10. Thus,
the holder that I've designated to hold sheets 9 and 10 has a square-notch and 4 v-notches
on the 9-side, and a half-round-notch on the 10 side. Should either side of that holder ever
leak, it'll be really obvious as to which holder (and side) is the culprit.
對我來說，我使用V形缺口1-4，方形缺口5，半圓形缺口10.因此，我已經指定用來固定板9和10的支架有一個方形槽口， 9側有4個V形缺口，10側有半個缺口。 如果持有者的任何一方洩漏，那麼究竟哪一個持有者（和哪一方）是罪魁禍首會非常明顯。
NOTE:
the notch goesinto the side that contacts the film, since light hits the ends of the holder at an angle, there is no need to notch both sides of the flap. Be sure to clean off the residue with an X-acto knife and clean the plastic dust out of the holder when you're done.
注意：
切口會進入與膠片接觸的一側，因為光線以一定角度撞擊夾持器的端部，所以不需要切割翻蓋的兩側。 完成後，請務必用X-acto刀清除殘留物，並將塑料粉塵清除乾淨。
To identify leaking holders among a large set
識別大量洩漏的持有人
The best that we came up with was to load them with the cheapest paper that you can get
(pre cut to 4x5 will save time) and take them out into the sun and twist each one so that all
surfaces face the sun (remember paper is a lot slower than film therefore keep them in the
sunlight about 5 times longer than usual) Advantage: you can load them under a safelight.
我們想到的最好的辦法是用最便宜的紙張裝入紙張（預先裁切為4x5將節省時間），然後將它們帶到太陽中，並扭曲每一張紙張，以使所有表面都面朝太陽（記住紙張是 比膠片慢很多，所以比陽光時間長5倍）優點：你可以將它們裝在安全燈下。
If you are really cheap and can spend the time, you can use the same sheet of paper for
more than one holder to narrow in on faulty ones. [Algorithm to determine the minimum
number of light sensitive sheets to identify all leaky holders left as an exercise for the
reader] Don't forget to number all holders (and matching sheets of paper before you start).
如果你真的很便宜並且可以花費時間，那麼你可以使用同一張紙用於多個持有者，以縮小缺陷。 [算法來確定光敏紙的最小數量，以識別所有洩漏的持有人留給讀者的練習]不要忘記在開始之前為所有持有人（和匹配的紙張）編號。
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Leaking camera
相機洩漏
How to find a leak
如何找到洩漏
I would take the camera into a darkened room and remove the lens board. I would shine a light into the camera body to see if there is a light leak in the bellows or the back. If no light can be seen, put the lens board back on and take the back off and shine the light in from that end and inspect for leaks in that direction. More than likely, you will find the leak and patch it with black tape and be back on the road in no time.
我會將相機帶入黑暗的房間並取下鏡頭板。 我會將燈光照射到相機機身，看看風箱或背部是否有輕微洩漏。 如果看不到光線，請將鏡頭板重新放回去，並從後面照射光線，並檢查該方向是否有洩漏。 更可能的是，你會發現洩漏並用黑膠帶修補它，並立即回到路上。
Just to suggest another, more definitive, way of finding those pesky pinhole leaks: if you are in a university and have access to a photomultiplier tube (try a physics lab), I would give that a try using an ordinary flash inside the bellows. This way you can look at a meter rather than trust your eyes to find even the smallest pinhole light leak.
只是為了提出另一種更確定的方法來尋找那些討厭的針孔洩漏：如果你在一所大學並且可以使用光電倍增管（嘗試物理實驗室），那麼我會試試用波紋管內的普通閃光燈。 通過這種方法，您可以查看儀表而不是相信眼睛即可找到最小的針孔光線洩漏。
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Flare problem due to excessive coverage
耀斑問題由於過度覆蓋
Another cause of this sort of problem is flare due to the sun or another bright light source out of the composed frame, bouncing light off the bellows and dumping the non-image light on part of the film. Since the lens reverses the image position on film, the upper right of your photo would be lower left on the ground glass - the sun, outside the frame to the upper right could be reflected by the bellows to the lower left area of the GG/film causing fogging. The solution is to use a lens hood, compendium bellows, or a card to prevent sources outside the composed frame from illuminating the lens and reflecting off the interior of the bellows.
這類問題的另一個原因是由於陽光或另一個明亮的光源離開了組合框架，從波紋管反射光並將非圖像光傾倒在部分電影上。 由於鏡頭反轉膠片上的圖像位置，因此照片的右上方將在磨砂玻璃的左下方 - 太陽在框架的右上方可以被波紋管反射到GG / 造成起霧的薄膜。 解決方法是使用遮光罩，彙編波紋管或卡片，以防止組合框外的光源照亮鏡頭並反射波紋管內部。
Finally, as a reward for those who slogged thru all of that, I have one last note - this I discovered today. A friend had an image spoiled by what looked like a light leak - the fogging appeared as a splash of light from the top of the frame. We examined the negative, and it seemed that, perhaps, it was caused by the image of the sun, which was just barely out of the frame. It looked rather as if the image of the sun fell on the beveled edge of the readyload film holder - around the frame, the bevel slopes *in* toward the film. And it looked to me like the image of the sun fell on this bevel, and reflected off and was splashed across the film. Ick. I think the moral of the story is that if the sun is just outside the frame, use a lens hood and adjust it very carefully.
最後，作為對所有這些人的獎勵，我還有最後一張紙條 - 我今天發現的。 一位朋友的圖像被一種看起來像漏光的東西所破壞 - 霧的出現是從框架頂部飛濺的光線。 我們檢查了否定的東西，看起來也許它是由太陽的形象造成的，而太陽的形像剛剛出現在框架之外。 它看起來好像太陽的圖像落在準備好的膠片支架的斜邊上 - 在框架周圍，斜面朝向膠片傾斜。 它看起來像太陽的圖像落在這個斜角上，並反射出來，濺在電影上。伊克。 我認為這個故事的寓意是，如果太陽剛好在鏡框外面，請使用遮光罩並仔細調整。
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Holder not sitting light-tight against camera
持有人不坐在相機上不透光
I suggest this: once you insert the holder, try wrapping the darkcloth around it and the back, leaving just enough to pull the slide. Or maybe wrap the entire back and holder, clip it shut with clothespins, and pull the slide inside there. It sounds like the holder is not seating light-tight against the camera. I think it's occasional possibly due to moisture changes in the atmosphere causing the wood to warp slightly.
我建議這樣做：一旦插入夾持器，嘗試在其周圍和背部包裹黑布，留下足夠的空間來拉動玻片。 或者可能包裹整個背部和固定器，用晾衣夾夾住它，然後將滑塊拉到裡面。 這聽起來像持有人不坐在照相機上不透光。 我認為這可能是由於大氣濕度變化導致木材輕微翹曲。
Would it be possible to put some black felt where the cutfilm holder rests against the back?
是否有可能把黑色的感覺放在切口膜支架靠在後面的位置？
I had a problem with light leaks when I first started in 4 x 5. Do not take the dark slide out until you are ready to shoot. Replace it immediately after you shoot. I ran into my light leak problem by putting just the corner of the dark slide in first. You have to put the slide in perfectly straight, or you get a light leak.
當我第一次開始使用4 x 5時，我遇到了漏光問題。在您準備好拍攝之前，不要將黑色幻燈片取出。 拍攝後立即更換。 通過將黑暗滑道的拐角放在第一位，我遇到了漏光問題。 您必須將滑道完全筆直，否則會發生輕微洩漏。
I have old wooden film holders that have been a great deal of trouble with light leaks for the two years or so that I've been trying to use them. I just came back from a trip and this time I kept the dark cloth on the camera during exposures and guess what? No light leaks on any of the film, a first! I thought that the leaks had ocurred in handling the film holders or even carrying them around, but this seems to indicate that the leaks ocurr only when opening and closing the dark slides.
我有兩年老的木質薄膜支架在漏光方面遇到了很多麻煩，所以我一直在嘗試使用它們。 我剛從一次旅行回來，這次我在拍照時將黑布放在相機上，猜猜是什麼？ 首先，任何影片都不會有光線洩漏！ 我認為在處理膠片支架時甚至是搬運它們時都會發生洩漏，但這似乎表明只有在打開和關閉黑色幻燈片時才會發生洩漏。
Other possibilities that come to mind are: not getting the holder seated before pulling the dark slide, shifting the holder when pulling the dark slide. Basically anything that might pull the holder away from the camera back. If you routinely shoot straight up, are those more likely to be fogged? The weight of the holder might be pulling it away from the back due to weakened springs.
想到的其他可能性是：在拉動黑暗滑動件之前沒有讓支架坐著，在拉動黑色滑動件時移動支架。 基本上任何可能會將照相機從照相機背面拉開的東西。 如果你經常直線射擊，那麼更容易被霧化？ 由於彈簧變弱，夾持器的重量可能會將其拉離背部。
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Leaking preloaded film systems
洩漏預裝膠片系統
Many people have reported problems with light leaks using preloaded systems, especially the kodak readyloads and/or polaroid back. Look at the: Preloaded systems - Fuji's Quickloads and Kodak Readyloads
許多人已經報告使用預裝系統的光洩漏問題，尤其是柯達就緒和/或偏光片返回。 看這:預裝系統 - 富士的Quickloads和柯達Readyloads
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Leaks outside of the camera
洩漏到相機外部
How and where do you load your holders? Do you wear, perhaps, a wristwatch with a luminescent face? (Yes, I *have* fogged film that way).
你如何以及在哪裡載入你的持有人？ 你是否戴了一隻帶有發光臉的手錶？ （是的，我*有這樣的霧化電影）。
If the fogging happens on the unexposed-but-processed film, try a different lab. If it still shows up, I'd say you're handling it wrong and you'll have to look at your environment (Don Nelson's point about fluorescents being able to fog film after being turned off is correct, in my experience).
如果未曝光但未處理的膠片上發生起霧，請嘗試其他實驗室。 如果它仍然出現，我會說你處理錯了，你必須看看你的環境（唐納爾森關於熒光燈關閉後能夠霧化電影的觀點是正確的，根據我的經驗）。
Two thoughts: 1) is the box you transport your exposed negative to the film lab in light tight? 2) Are you sure these "blobs" are not processing failures of some kind. I had a roll of 35mm E6 butchered on me last year by a "professional" lab, and some of your blobs look a little like what I had on my roll of film. Either that, or could there be light leaks in the lab somewhere ?
兩個想法：1）你是否將你曝光的底片輕輕地運輸到電影實驗室？ 2）你確定這些“斑點”沒有處理某種類型的失敗嗎？ 去年我用一個“專業”實驗室對我進行了一次35mm E6卷的處理，其中一些斑點看起來有點像我在電影膠卷上所做的。 要么是這個，要么在實驗室的某個地方會有輕微的洩漏？
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update: 2018/06/10
reference:
1. Large format photography: Light leaks
2. prevention of film holder light leaks
3. Need help analyzing light leak
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Some photographers (like me) are plagued by these problems, which are among the
worse frustrations of LF. Some have never experienced them. There are zillions of
different sources of light leaks.
一些攝影師（像我一樣）受到這些問題的困擾，這是LF的更糟糕的挫折之一。
有些從未經歷過它們。 有數以萬計的不同光洩漏源。
A summary
總結
1. Holder:
底片匣：
Leaks at light trap for dark slide. Leaks because its warped.
Leaks from defective dark slide or dark slide doesn't fit. Leak at loading flap.
在黑色滑板遮光處洩漏。 洩漏是因為它的扭曲。
從有缺陷或不合適的黑色滑板洩漏。 裝載到翻蓋時洩漏。
2. Camera back:
相機背部：
Leaks because its warped. Because the light trap keeps the holder from seating properly.
Leaks because something else keeps the holder from seating.
由於其扭曲而洩漏。由於遮光裝置使支架無法正確安放。
洩漏是因為別的東西使支架不能就位。
3. Camera body:
相機機身：
Leaks from cracks or bad joints. Possible around screws or rivets holding parts on.
Leaks from ill fitting lens boards. Leaks from holes in lens board.
從裂縫或接縫不良處洩漏。可能在附件上的螺絲或鉚釘周圍。
從不適合的鏡頭板洩漏。鏡頭板上的孔洩漏。
4. Bellows:
波紋管：
Pin holes at corners or elswhere. Doesn't fit at ends where its fastened to
camera body and front.
在角落或其他地方的針孔。 固定在相機機身和正面的末端不合適。
5. Leaks from shutters sticking open, perhaps only a pin hole opening.
Can also be caused by defective shutter leaves. Check both cocked and after tripping.
Some shutters have hard rubber leaves and can have pin holes in them.
因百葉窗的持續打開而洩漏，也許只有一個針孔開口。 也可能由快門葉片損壞引起。
同時檢查上板機和絆倒後。 有些百葉窗有堅硬的橡膠葉片，並且可以有針孔。
6. Reflective something inside camera. Light outside of the image area being reflected
onto the film.
相機內反光的東西。 圖像區域外的光被反射到膠片上。
7. Film is getting fogged somewhare other than in the camera.
膠卷在相機以外的地方變得模糊不清。
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A few diagnosis remarks
一些診斷評論
If the fogging extends past the borders from the rails in the holder it has to be coming
from elsewhere than from the camera.
如果起霧從支架上的導軌延伸越過邊界，則它必須來自別處而不是來自相機。
If many negatives have identical an identical or nearly identical fog pattern it may come
from a leak in the film box.
如果許多負片具有相同或幾乎相同的霧圖案，則可能來自膠片盒中的洩漏。
Pinhole leaks would be more likely to look like superimposed images than oblong blobs.
針孔洩漏更可能看起來像疊加圖像而非長方形斑點。
If the "light leaks" do not have sharp edges but they do have edges, i. e. there is not
a bright area which gradually fades out, this must be not too far from the film.
如果“漏光”沒有鋒利的邊緣，但它們確實有邊緣，亦即沒有一個明亮的區域逐漸淡出，
這一定不會離電影太遠。
If the leak were in the bellows or in the front board then I would expect the bright areas to have foggy edges.
如果洩漏位於波紋管或前面板，那麼我會期望明亮的區域有霧邊。
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Leaking film holders
從底片匣洩漏
Common problems
常見問題
Check the condition of the hinges on the loading flap. If they are worn that could be your
leak. Is the slide seating all the way down into the holder? Maybe you have a small
hairline crack at the seam of the flap possibly?
檢查裝載擋板上鉸鏈的狀況。 如果他們磨損可能是你的洩漏。 滑塊是否一直落座到支架中？ 也許你可能在皮瓣的縫隙處有一條細小的發紋？
One place they leak is the place where you pull out the dark slide. Ever take a holder apart?
A friend and I did when we where building a vacumn 4x5 film holder for our astrogrpah
(that's another story).
他們洩漏的一個地方是你拉出黑暗幻燈片的地方。 曾經拿過一個持有人嗎？ 我們的一位朋友和我在為我們的天文台製作一個4x5電影拍攝棚的時候（這是另一回事）。
Inside the "top" of the holder, behind the metal part, is a peice of light brass - it looks like a
curved comb. over top of this metal is a peice of black felt. What happens over tiem is the
felt wears down, "teeth" on the comb loose thier spring and fail to hold up the felt in place,
or break all together.
在保持架的“頂部”內部，在金屬部件後面，是一個淺黃銅片 - 它看起來像一把彎曲的梳子。 在這種金屬之上是黑色毛氈。 關於頭髮的事情是頭髮磨損了，梳子上的“牙齒”鬆開了它的彈簧，並且未能將毛氈固定在位，或者一起破碎。
Normally when you pull back a darkslide, the curved part of the "comb" springs back up into place, blocking off light. Older holders, the felt may have holes in it, allowing small light leaks to escape through. Also, the felt may be very dirty, so no matter how clean the rest of the holder is, you continually get scratches and dust marks on your flim, carried in off the felt onto the emulsion of your film from the darkslide being pushed in.
正常情況下，當你拉回黑暗滑道時，“梳子”的彎曲部分彈回到位，阻擋光線。 年長的持有者，毛氈可能有洞，允許小漏光通過。 此外，毛氈可能非常臟，所以無論支架的其他部分如何干淨，您都會不時在毛氈上留下划痕和灰塵痕跡，從毛氈上將其從推入的黑色滑片中帶入膠片乳劑中。
You can check these with a flash light by folding down the loading flap so you can look
straight into the holder and shining the light right into the slot for the slide.
您可以通過折疊裝載擋板，使用閃光燈檢查這些擋板，以便您可以直觀地看到擋板並將
光線直接照射到滑板的插槽中。
Marking holders for identification
標識持有人的身份
If large format users would use a notch-encoding scheme to number their holders,
it would be MUCH easier to exactly pinpoint a leaky holder. I (and several other large
format people I'm friends with) take miniature files and notch the flap with the files.
如果大幅面用戶使用凹槽編碼方案對其持有者進行編號，則準確定位漏出的持有者會更容
易。 我（和其他幾個大型的朋友）拍攝微型文件，並在文件中留下一點痕跡。
For me I use a v-notch for 1-4, square-notch for 5, and a half-round- notch for 10. Thus,
the holder that I've designated to hold sheets 9 and 10 has a square-notch and 4 v-notches
on the 9-side, and a half-round-notch on the 10 side. Should either side of that holder ever
leak, it'll be really obvious as to which holder (and side) is the culprit.
對我來說，我使用V形缺口1-4，方形缺口5，半圓形缺口10.因此，我已經指定用來固定板9和10的支架有一個方形槽口， 9側有4個V形缺口，10側有半個缺口。 如果持有者的任何一方洩漏，那麼究竟哪一個持有者（和哪一方）是罪魁禍首會非常明顯。
NOTE:
the notch goesinto the side that contacts the film, since light hits the ends of the holder at an angle, there is no need to notch both sides of the flap. Be sure to clean off the residue with an X-acto knife and clean the plastic dust out of the holder when you're done.
注意：
切口會進入與膠片接觸的一側，因為光線以一定角度撞擊夾持器的端部，所以不需要切割翻蓋的兩側。 完成後，請務必用X-acto刀清除殘留物，並將塑料粉塵清除乾淨。
To identify leaking holders among a large set
識別大量洩漏的持有人
The best that we came up with was to load them with the cheapest paper that you can get
(pre cut to 4x5 will save time) and take them out into the sun and twist each one so that all
surfaces face the sun (remember paper is a lot slower than film therefore keep them in the
sunlight about 5 times longer than usual) Advantage: you can load them under a safelight.
我們想到的最好的辦法是用最便宜的紙張裝入紙張（預先裁切為4x5將節省時間），然後將它們帶到太陽中，並扭曲每一張紙張，以使所有表面都面朝太陽（記住紙張是 比膠片慢很多，所以比陽光時間長5倍）優點：你可以將它們裝在安全燈下。
If you are really cheap and can spend the time, you can use the same sheet of paper for
more than one holder to narrow in on faulty ones. [Algorithm to determine the minimum
number of light sensitive sheets to identify all leaky holders left as an exercise for the
reader] Don't forget to number all holders (and matching sheets of paper before you start).
如果你真的很便宜並且可以花費時間，那麼你可以使用同一張紙用於多個持有者，以縮小缺陷。 [算法來確定光敏紙的最小數量，以識別所有洩漏的持有人留給讀者的練習]不要忘記在開始之前為所有持有人（和匹配的紙張）編號。
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Leaking camera
相機洩漏
How to find a leak
如何找到洩漏
I would take the camera into a darkened room and remove the lens board. I would shine a light into the camera body to see if there is a light leak in the bellows or the back. If no light can be seen, put the lens board back on and take the back off and shine the light in from that end and inspect for leaks in that direction. More than likely, you will find the leak and patch it with black tape and be back on the road in no time.
我會將相機帶入黑暗的房間並取下鏡頭板。 我會將燈光照射到相機機身，看看風箱或背部是否有輕微洩漏。 如果看不到光線，請將鏡頭板重新放回去，並從後面照射光線，並檢查該方向是否有洩漏。 更可能的是，你會發現洩漏並用黑膠帶修補它，並立即回到路上。
Just to suggest another, more definitive, way of finding those pesky pinhole leaks: if you are in a university and have access to a photomultiplier tube (try a physics lab), I would give that a try using an ordinary flash inside the bellows. This way you can look at a meter rather than trust your eyes to find even the smallest pinhole light leak.
只是為了提出另一種更確定的方法來尋找那些討厭的針孔洩漏：如果你在一所大學並且可以使用光電倍增管（嘗試物理實驗室），那麼我會試試用波紋管內的普通閃光燈。 通過這種方法，您可以查看儀表而不是相信眼睛即可找到最小的針孔光線洩漏。
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Flare problem due to excessive coverage
耀斑問題由於過度覆蓋
Another cause of this sort of problem is flare due to the sun or another bright light source out of the composed frame, bouncing light off the bellows and dumping the non-image light on part of the film. Since the lens reverses the image position on film, the upper right of your photo would be lower left on the ground glass - the sun, outside the frame to the upper right could be reflected by the bellows to the lower left area of the GG/film causing fogging. The solution is to use a lens hood, compendium bellows, or a card to prevent sources outside the composed frame from illuminating the lens and reflecting off the interior of the bellows.
這類問題的另一個原因是由於陽光或另一個明亮的光源離開了組合框架，從波紋管反射光並將非圖像光傾倒在部分電影上。 由於鏡頭反轉膠片上的圖像位置，因此照片的右上方將在磨砂玻璃的左下方 - 太陽在框架的右上方可以被波紋管反射到GG / 造成起霧的薄膜。 解決方法是使用遮光罩，彙編波紋管或卡片，以防止組合框外的光源照亮鏡頭並反射波紋管內部。
Finally, as a reward for those who slogged thru all of that, I have one last note - this I discovered today. A friend had an image spoiled by what looked like a light leak - the fogging appeared as a splash of light from the top of the frame. We examined the negative, and it seemed that, perhaps, it was caused by the image of the sun, which was just barely out of the frame. It looked rather as if the image of the sun fell on the beveled edge of the readyload film holder - around the frame, the bevel slopes *in* toward the film. And it looked to me like the image of the sun fell on this bevel, and reflected off and was splashed across the film. Ick. I think the moral of the story is that if the sun is just outside the frame, use a lens hood and adjust it very carefully.
最後，作為對所有這些人的獎勵，我還有最後一張紙條 - 我今天發現的。 一位朋友的圖像被一種看起來像漏光的東西所破壞 - 霧的出現是從框架頂部飛濺的光線。 我們檢查了否定的東西，看起來也許它是由太陽的形象造成的，而太陽的形像剛剛出現在框架之外。 它看起來好像太陽的圖像落在準備好的膠片支架的斜邊上 - 在框架周圍，斜面朝向膠片傾斜。 它看起來像太陽的圖像落在這個斜角上，並反射出來，濺在電影上。伊克。 我認為這個故事的寓意是，如果太陽剛好在鏡框外面，請使用遮光罩並仔細調整。
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Holder not sitting light-tight against camera
持有人不坐在相機上不透光
I suggest this: once you insert the holder, try wrapping the darkcloth around it and the back, leaving just enough to pull the slide. Or maybe wrap the entire back and holder, clip it shut with clothespins, and pull the slide inside there. It sounds like the holder is not seating light-tight against the camera. I think it's occasional possibly due to moisture changes in the atmosphere causing the wood to warp slightly.
我建議這樣做：一旦插入夾持器，嘗試在其周圍和背部包裹黑布，留下足夠的空間來拉動玻片。 或者可能包裹整個背部和固定器，用晾衣夾夾住它，然後將滑塊拉到裡面。 這聽起來像持有人不坐在照相機上不透光。 我認為這可能是由於大氣濕度變化導致木材輕微翹曲。
Would it be possible to put some black felt where the cutfilm holder rests against the back?
是否有可能把黑色的感覺放在切口膜支架靠在後面的位置？
I had a problem with light leaks when I first started in 4 x 5. Do not take the dark slide out until you are ready to shoot. Replace it immediately after you shoot. I ran into my light leak problem by putting just the corner of the dark slide in first. You have to put the slide in perfectly straight, or you get a light leak.
當我第一次開始使用4 x 5時，我遇到了漏光問題。在您準備好拍攝之前，不要將黑色幻燈片取出。 拍攝後立即更換。 通過將黑暗滑道的拐角放在第一位，我遇到了漏光問題。 您必須將滑道完全筆直，否則會發生輕微洩漏。
I have old wooden film holders that have been a great deal of trouble with light leaks for the two years or so that I've been trying to use them. I just came back from a trip and this time I kept the dark cloth on the camera during exposures and guess what? No light leaks on any of the film, a first! I thought that the leaks had ocurred in handling the film holders or even carrying them around, but this seems to indicate that the leaks ocurr only when opening and closing the dark slides.
我有兩年老的木質薄膜支架在漏光方面遇到了很多麻煩，所以我一直在嘗試使用它們。 我剛從一次旅行回來，這次我在拍照時將黑布放在相機上，猜猜是什麼？ 首先，任何影片都不會有光線洩漏！ 我認為在處理膠片支架時甚至是搬運它們時都會發生洩漏，但這似乎表明只有在打開和關閉黑色幻燈片時才會發生洩漏。
Other possibilities that come to mind are: not getting the holder seated before pulling the dark slide, shifting the holder when pulling the dark slide. Basically anything that might pull the holder away from the camera back. If you routinely shoot straight up, are those more likely to be fogged? The weight of the holder might be pulling it away from the back due to weakened springs.
想到的其他可能性是：在拉動黑暗滑動件之前沒有讓支架坐著，在拉動黑色滑動件時移動支架。 基本上任何可能會將照相機從照相機背面拉開的東西。 如果你經常直線射擊，那麼更容易被霧化？ 由於彈簧變弱，夾持器的重量可能會將其拉離背部。
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Leaking preloaded film systems
洩漏預裝膠片系統
Many people have reported problems with light leaks using preloaded systems, especially the kodak readyloads and/or polaroid back. Look at the: Preloaded systems - Fuji's Quickloads and Kodak Readyloads
許多人已經報告使用預裝系統的光洩漏問題，尤其是柯達就緒和/或偏光片返回。 看這:預裝系統 - 富士的Quickloads和柯達Readyloads
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Leaks outside of the camera
洩漏到相機外部
How and where do you load your holders? Do you wear, perhaps, a wristwatch with a luminescent face? (Yes, I *have* fogged film that way).
你如何以及在哪裡載入你的持有人？ 你是否戴了一隻帶有發光臉的手錶？ （是的，我*有這樣的霧化電影）。
If the fogging happens on the unexposed-but-processed film, try a different lab. If it still shows up, I'd say you're handling it wrong and you'll have to look at your environment (Don Nelson's point about fluorescents being able to fog film after being turned off is correct, in my experience).
如果未曝光但未處理的膠片上發生起霧，請嘗試其他實驗室。 如果它仍然出現，我會說你處理錯了，你必須看看你的環境（唐納爾森關於熒光燈關閉後能夠霧化電影的觀點是正確的，根據我的經驗）。
Two thoughts: 1) is the box you transport your exposed negative to the film lab in light tight? 2) Are you sure these "blobs" are not processing failures of some kind. I had a roll of 35mm E6 butchered on me last year by a "professional" lab, and some of your blobs look a little like what I had on my roll of film. Either that, or could there be light leaks in the lab somewhere ?
兩個想法：1）你是否將你曝光的底片輕輕地運輸到電影實驗室？ 2）你確定這些“斑點”沒有處理某種類型的失敗嗎？ 去年我用一個“專業”實驗室對我進行了一次35mm E6卷的處理，其中一些斑點看起來有點像我在電影膠卷上所做的。 要么是這個，要么在實驗室的某個地方會有輕微的洩漏？
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